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Latour expects Michelin Star from Van Lier






A revisit to Chef Marcel van Lier on the
occasion of his first Michelin star in 2005.

DND Restaurant Preview

A Grand Hotel Huis ter Duin Production

The French Restaurant with a Touch of International Flavours

Latour

Executive Chef Marcel van Lier

Pastry Chef Susanne Hoogenhout

Sommelier Jean-Luc Etienne
Executive Chef Marcel van Lier (37)
Signature Dish: Carpaccio of mango with sautéed red prawns, grilled Dover sole and deep-fried avocado with tarragon dressing.

Marcel van Lier, surprisingly, was disappointed by his visit to Chez Panisse, the restaurant of Alice Waters in Berkeley across the bay from San Francisco. It was not that the food itself was at fault, but rather the restaurant has faded with the times. It was, he said, “very good, but a bit old-fashioned". In contrast with the older generation, dinner at French Laundry, the restaurant of Thomas Keller in Yountville, was, says Van Lier, "fantastic". It was expensive, says Van Lier, "but well worth it".

Van Lier was born in Wielre, North Brabant, in 1964. He always wanted to be a cook. His first experiences with food products were in the greenhouse of his parents. At eighteen years-of-age, Van Lier decided that he wanted to make good on his early desire to be a chef and in 1982 entered cooking school in Sittard. Under the SHV regime, Van Lier went both to school and served as an apprentice at three restaurants.

His basic training in the classical French kitchen was received at Der Bloasbalg in Wahlwiller in the Province of Limburg. As chef de partie under Executive Chef and owner Jan Waghemans, Van Lier overcame a case of shyness which had plagued him up to then. Der Bloasbalg was followed in his second year as apprentice by Kasteel Wittem, also in Limburg, where his training in the classical kitchen of France was strengthened by Executive Chef Teus van Schaik. His best apprentice experience, in terms of feeling at home, was at Hostellerie du Château in Heeze, Limburg. Van Lier says Executive Chef Frans Gerrits delegated a great deal of responsibility and he now realizes how much this benefited him. In addition, Gerrits was an amiable chef and this was much appreciated by Van Lier.

Once out of school, Van Lier tried his luck at La Vilette in Rotterdam where he served as chef de partie for the cold kitchen and desserts under Jan Ouwehand. Rotterdam, however, did not agree with Van Lier so he left La Vilette after six months. He was given an opportunity to work with Executive Chef Nico van Beekveldt at De Kieviet in Wassenaar, who, says Van Lier, taught him the art of presentation.

The turning point in the career of Van Lier occurred when he was taken on as chef de partie at Hotel Corona in The Hague where he came under the influence of Robert Kranenborg. During his one year at Corona, Van Lier said he was taught the ins and outs of preparing food by Kranenborg. Thereafter, and what turned out to be his longest stint thus far at a single restaurant, Van Lier was taken on as sous chef by Giovanni Matarazzi at Villa Rozenrust in Leidschendam.

Villa Rozenrust, says Van Lier, was actually not an authentic Italian restaurant. It, nevertheless, was one of the first in the Netherlands to call itself an Italian restaurant and certainly the first Italian restaurant in Holland to be graced with a Michelin star. Mr. Matarazzi received several awards from organizations in Italy for the promotion of the Italian kitchen in the Netherlands. After four years of experience in Italian cooking under Executive Chef Lambert Stuifbergen, Van Lier took over as Executive Chef in 1994.

In 1998, Mr. Matarazzi, with some reluctance, decided to sell his restaurant. This decision introduced great uncertainty for Van Lier. Van Lier was joined in 1993 at Villa Rozenrust by Jean-Luc Etienne, the current sommelier and maître d' hotel at Huis ter Duin. It became directly apparent to Etienne, upon being introduced to the comings and goings of the new owner, that things were not going to go well. While Etienne immediately took leave of Villa Rozenrust, Van Lier, who had developed a close working relationship with Etienne, stayed on until he finally realized, "I did not believe in it anymore".

After Villa Rozenrust, Van Lier said he needed a change. Remembering Kranenborg, he decided for fish and, in the knowledge there was an opening at Rederserf, the fish restaurant of Piet and Tonnie Schot in Scheveningen, he sought the job and was hired as chief executive. Van Lier, however, was not happy in Scheveningen and, after the tension created by the new situation at Villa Rozenrust, he suffered a mild heart attack.

Meanwhile, his friend Etienne had become sommelier at Restaurant Latour in Noordwijk, and being in need of a chef who could bring a star to the restaurant at Huis der Duin, Etienne asked Van Lier if he would be interested in becoming the executive chef at Latour. Van Lier joined Latour in 1991. In order to understand the kitchen of Van Lier at Latour, it is important to know that he himself hates to eat someplace if he already knows what the dishes on the menu will taste like. There must be an element of surprise and adventure in tasting food.

The current menu of Van Lier at Latour is basically classical French, as for example, sautéed foie gras with glazed sweetbreads, fillet of beef and roasted tuna with red wine sauce and Béarnaise sauce and rib of veal with preserved garlic and a thyme-scented shallot sauce. The international influences are best represented by the Italian-based dish monkfish prepared in a crisp dried-tomato crust with melted mozzarella and basil-scented tomato sauce, and cutlets of suckling pig glazed with hoisin and served with prune and mustard sauce.

Sommelier Jean-Luc Etienne (28)

Jean-Luc had a hankering for the catering business at an early age. He was born in Voorburg in 1973. In catering, you deal with people and this fascinated Etienne. After high school, he worked as waiter, chef and maître d' restaurant at a small restaurant in The Hague. He left this place in 1991 for Galeria in Scheveningen and then became chef du partie at La Province in Laren. While at La Province, he met the sommelier Paul Schmidt from the ex-owner and chef Martin Fagel at De Hoefslag in Bosch en Duin who persuaded Etienne that his talents lay in wine. Etienne attended catering school in 1993 and went to the Wine academy where he obtained a certificate as an enologist. In 1994, Etienne met Marcel van Lier at Villa Rozenrust where he had been taken on as sommelier. In 1997, Etienne moved to Latour where he is the sommelier.

The pastry chef Susanne Hoogenhout, 30, has worked at La Rive in the Amstel Hotel, at the Kersentuin and at Excelsior at Hotel l'Europe, all in Amsterdam.

Restaurant Latour, obviously, is named after the famous 2.4-hectare wine estate on the Gironde River in the Bordeaux region. It's most famous wine garden is the 1.16-hectare L'Enclos. The wine garden is currently owned by Francois Pinault, a French businessman. Etienne says Latour has approximately 25 labels at their disposal with a total of 30,000 bottles in the cellar. They have six varieties of Château Latour from the years 1986 through 1997. Latour works with 25 wine merchants with Bart Wine Import in Midden Beemster and Okhuysen in Haarlem probably being the most important.

Van Lier works closely with Piet van der Bergh in Zoetermeer for his Dutch Rhine-Maas-Waal Beef and Chateaubriand in Amsterdam for other meat products. He buys his goose liver at the market Rungis in Paris, Van Os in Amsterdam supplies the fish. Kramer in Amsterdam supplies vegetables. Van Lier and Etienne form a well-oiled combination at Latour. Since Van Lier has delivered a Michelin star for Villa Rozenrust, Etienne sees no reason why that cannot be done at Latour. Latour is mentioned by Lekker 2001 as the number 51 on its best restaurant list and is cited by the Michelin Red Guide.
Preview No. 18 Weitzel & Company 25 June 2001


Latour
Grand Hotel Huis ter Duin
Koningin Astrid Boulevard 5
2200 AB Noordwijk aan Zee
Tel: 071-361.9220
Fax: 071-361.9401
E-mail: info@huisterduin.com
www.huisterduin.com


Menu Latour - Summer 2001

Les Entrées

Carpaccio of mango with sautéed red prawns, grilled tiny sole and deep-fried avocado
Carpaccio van mango met gebakken gamba’s gegrilde sliptong en gefrituurde avocado
EUR 19,50 ƒ 42,97
Cocktail of cupped oysters, grapefruit and red beetroot served with caviar (10 grams)
Cocktail van wilde oesters, grapefruit en rode biet geserveerd met kaviaar (10 gram)
EUR 34,00 ƒ 74,93
Turban of tuna with a crab fritter and marinated salmon with tuna rémoulade
Tulband van tonijn met beignet van krab, gemarineerde zalm met tonijnrémoulade
EUR 17,00 ƒ 37,46
Salad of half a lobster with a strawberry and black pepper dressing
Salade van halve kreeft met een aardbei- zwarte peperdressing
EUR 29,50 ƒ 65,00
Chartreuse of celery, duck foie gras galantine and guinea fowl rolls with truffle dressing
Chartreuse van bleekselderie, eendenlevergalantine en rolletjes van parelhoen met truffeldressing
EUR 21,00 ƒ 49,28

Les Potages

Cream of Dutch shrimp soup with cauliflower cream and sesame-scented shrimp toasts
Crèmesoep van Hollandse garnalen met
bloemkoolcrème en sesamgarnalen toastjes
EUR 12,00 ƒ 26,44
Beef consommé with a duck foie gras and herb bisquit
Bouillon van rund met bisquit van eendenlever en kruiden
EUR 12,00 ƒ 26,44

Les Entrées Chaudes

Sautéed foie gras with glazed sweetbreads, sautéed apple and a curry and lovage-scented jus
Gebakken ganzenlever met geglaceerde zwezerik, gebakken appeltjes en jus geparfumeerd met kerrie en lavas
EUR 23,00 ƒ 50,69
Skewered scallops and langoustines with a saffron and vanilla sauce
Spiesje met Sint Jakobsmosselen en langoustines met een saus van saffraan en vanille
EUR 22,00 ƒ 48,48

Les Poissons, Les Crustacés et Les Coquillages

Grilled turbot with crab crumble and a tarragon-
scented crab sauce
Gegrilde tarbot met crabcrumble en saus van krab met dragon
EUR 35,00 ƒ 77,13
Sautéed cod with winkles, leek cannelloni and
a parsley sauce
Gebakken kabeljauw met alikruikjes, cannelloni van prei en saus van peterselie
EUR 19,00 ƒ 42,97
Monkfish prepared in a crisp dried-tomato crust with
melted mozzarella and basil-scented tomato sauce
Zeeduivel bereid in krokante korst van gedroogde tomaat met gesmolten mozzarellakaas en saus van basilicum en tomaat
EUR 25,00 ƒ 55,09
Grilled red mullet with clams, octopus and allspice jus
Gegrilde rode mul met venusschelpjes en pulpe met jus van piment
EUR 19,00 ƒ 42,97
Sautéed young sole with a mousseline of artichoke, crispy anchovis and a bouillabaisse sauce
Gebakken jonge tong met artisjokmousseline,
krokante ansjovis en saus van bouillabaisse
EUR 39,00 ƒ 85,94
Papillote of John Dory with a mushroom and
aromatic vegetable purée, shellfish sauce
Zonnevis en papillote bereid met puree van
paddestoelen en aromatische groenten, saus van schaaldieren
EUR 29,50 ƒ 65,00.

Les Viandes et Les Volailles

Barbary duck with a passion fruit and red pepper sauce
Barberie eend met een saus van passievruchten en rode pepers
EUR 24,00 ƒ 52,89
Cutlets of suckling pig glazed with hoisin and served with a prune and mustard sauce
Speenvarkenkoteletjes geglaceerd met Hoisin en een saus van
pruimen en mosterd
EUR 21,00 ƒ 46,28
Beef fillet and roasted tuna with red wine sauce and Béarnaise sauce
Filet van ossehaas en geroosterde tonijn met rode wijn- en bearnaisesaus
EUR 28,00 ƒ 62,81
Rib of veal with preserved garlic and a thyme-scented shallot sauce
Kalfsribstuk met gekonfijte knoflook en saus van sjalotten met tijm
EUR 26,50 ƒ 58,40

Les Desserts

Crêpes Suzette (serves 2)
Crêpes Suzette (2 personen)
EUR 11.50 ƒ25.34 p.p.
Tartlet of warm figs with a white port sabayon and served with cinnamon ice cream
Tartelette van warme vijgen met witte portsabayon en kaneelroomijs
EUR 11.50 ƒ25.34
Pyramid of nougat de Montélimar parfait with candied pineapple
Piramide van Nougat de Montélimar-parfait met gekonfijte ananas
EUR 9.00 ƒ19.83
White chocolate tartlet with steeped prunes, crunchy almonds and Armagnac ice cream
Taartje van witte chocolade met gewelde pruimen, krokante amandel en Armagnac-ijs
EUR 10.50 ƒ23.14
Champagne goblet with apricot brandy, Guanaja lacté chocolate and apricot ice cream
Champagnebokaal met apricot brandy, Guanaja lacté en abrokozenroomijs
EUR 11.50 ƒ25.34
Coconut and Manjari chocolate prepared in various manners
Diverse bereidingen van kosos en Manjarichocolade
EUR 12.50 ƒ27.55
Triangle of citronella mousse and banana with spice syrup and gingerbread croûtons
Triangel van serehmousse en banaan met specerijensiroop en kruidkoekcroutons
EUR 11.50 ƒ25.34

Menu Pierrot

Turban of tuna with a crab fritter and marinated salmon with tuna rémoulade
Skewered scallops and langoustines with a saffron and vanilla sauce
Monkfish prepared in a crisp dried-tomato crust with
melted mozzarella and basil-scented tomato sauce
Sautéed foie gras with glazed sweetbreads, sautéed apple and a curry and lovage-scented jus
Cutlets of suckling pig glazed with hoisin and served with a prune and mustard sauce
Gorgonzola ravioli with honey sauce
Millefeuille of raspberry parfait, manjari chocolate and misérable with raspberries

Menu Pierrot (7 courses) EUR 75,00 (ƒ165,28)
This menu can only be ordered with the whole table until 09.00 pm.

Menu Pierrot

Tulband van tonijn met beignet van krab, gemarineerde zalm met Tonijnrémoulade
Spiesje met Sint Jakobsmosselen en langoustines met een saus van saffraan en vanille
Zeeduivel bereid in krokante korst van gedroogde tomaat met
gesmolten mozzarellakaas en saus van basilicum en tomaat
Gebakken ganzenlever met geglaceerde zwezerik, gebakken appeltjes en jus, geparfumeerd met kerrie en lavas
Speenvarkenkoteletjes geglaceerd met Hoisin en een saus van pruimen en mosterd
Ravioli van Gorgonzola met honingsaus
Millefeuille van frambozen parfait, manjari chocolade en ‘misérable’ met frambozen

Menu Pierrot (7 gangen) EUR 75,00 (ƒ165,28)
Dit menu kan slechts per gehele tafel genoten worden tot 21.00 uur.



The Dutch News Digest regularly presents restaurant previews and these are not to be mistaken for restaurant reviews. The preview is not an advertisement. It is an attempt to get one acquainted with the restaurant and is part of a news service which keeps readers up to date on the restaurant scene both in the Netherlands and abroad. The Dutch News Digest also presents restaurant reviews. Weitzel & Co © 25 June 2001

© 1997-05 by Dutch News Digest

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